Monochrome Monday: The HYT H3 Debuts At Baselworld 2015

Back in 2012, HYT introduced a replica watches sale that was a real blast in the world of watchmaking, by integrating a liquid directly into the movement and using it as an instrument to indicate time. One year after this first attempt named HYT H1, the company came back with a new watch, even more exiting and technically advanced, called the HYT H2. On the Monochrome-Watches blog,  successor to both of these timepieces: the HYT H3, which is even more complicated. Is it still horology?

For this new edition, the team at HYT Watches is still working closely with one of the most renowned manufacturers, APRP. The HYT H3 is, of course, again using the concept of a fluidic indication of the time. However, while the H1 & H2 are based on a circular tube with a retrograde fluid, the new HYT H3 comes with a brand new architecture called ‘fluid portrayal of time.’ The brand wanted to have a linear indication that results in a rectangular design, with the bellows at opposite ends.

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Once the idea of having the fluid on the top and in a linear way was decided, the rest of the design comes in a natural (but highly complicated) way. The cheap replica watches thus follows this linear shape with a case measuring 62 mm x 41 mm. It is made of charcoal gray PVD-coated titanium and platinum with a micro-blasted, satin finish. The sides are shaped like a drop, meaning that the top is substantially curved. This curved shape, combined with a reasonable width of 41 mm and screwed offset lugs, should be easier to wear than the 49 mm of the HYT H1, for example.

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Even if this new shape is quite impressive, the piece de resistance of the HYT H3 is the movement and its totally crazy mechanics. The upper part of the dial is occupied by the two bellows/pistons that drive the fluids. The first, on the left, drives the progression of the fluid and therefore the time display. Its counterpart, on the right, compensates for this progression in the capillary. The glass tube, operating in a vacuum, still contains two fluids: the first (water-based) yellow fluid serves to tell the time; the second (viscous-based) translucent fluid works in opposition. As in the HYT H1 & H2, the liquid works like a retrograde indication, meaning that when it reaches the end of the tube, it goes back in a few seconds to its original place to start its journey again.

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The fluid however here is made to indicate only six hours. As you can see, below the glass tube sits a time scale graduated from 0 to 5. This scale is, in fact, a rotating dial with four faces that rotate at the same time the liquid goes back to its original position, in order to be ready for next six hours. Because this cube scale has 4 faces, it’s a 24-hour indicator. This bar is set via a push-button on the left side of the best IWC replica watches. With each press, the central time display bar turns on itself by one quarter of a turn. The exact hours and minutes are classically adjusted by the crown.

The minutes are located on the right side of the dial and are also displayed in a linear way, to ensure the technical and stylistic cohesion of the HYT H3. It’s a twin articulated arm, which sweeps across a graduated rule. At its end, the retrograde mechanism instantaneously returns to its starting point. The rest of the dial is occupied by the regulating organ, the crown position indicator and a crazy load of mechanical sweetness (gears, levers and wheels). As in the HYT H2, the mechanics are parts of the watch and fully exposed.

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The back reveals two barrels for a 170-hour power reserve (approximately seven days) and a power-reserve indicator. The movement is finished with micro-blasted, charcoal gray PVD-coated titanium bridges with titanium-colored, satin-finished accents, rhodium-plated bellows, and all the respect due to haute horlogerie.

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This first edition of the HYT H3 is, for the moment, only available in a combination of charcoal gray PVD-coated titanium and platinum with a black alligator leather strap. It will be produced in a limited run of 25 new replica watches and available from September 2015. The price for this amazing piece of modern horology: 280,000 Swiss Francs.

Slim d’Hermès Perspective cavalière

Hermès offers its own interpretation of the “Perspective cavalière” through an exceptional new model featuring a dial that sets a perfect stage for the champlevé enamel technique: Slim d’Hermès Perspective cavalière.

At Hermès, the story often begins with a drawing. Originally designed for a silk scarf, the “Perspective cavalière” motif is expressed on a gold plate. The artisan reproduces it in metal by forming small cells of various depths through careful workmanship with a tool known as a graver. Then comes the enamelling. The artisan uses to brush to delicately apply the molten glass powder in the cavities, before – much like a painter – giving life to the colours by successively firing them at temperatures of more than 800°C, thereby gradually revealing all the many nuances and depth effects. After each delicate firing operation, the enameller sands down the piece with an ever-finer grain in order to give the model the radiance it deserves.

Hermès offers an artistic interpretation of the fundamentals of this “cavalier perspective”. In the absence of any vanishing point, the raised letters forming the words “Hermès Paris” on the dial are reproduced in two dimensions. This set of blue, red, yellow or white parallel lines is issued in a six-piece limited edition, with each of these exceptional creations housed in a 750 white gold case and driven by an ultra-thin Manufacture Hermès H1950 movement.

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Corum – Golden Bridge & Miss Golden Bridge Ceramic

In 2015, Corum celebrates the 35 years of its mythical movement Golden Bridge. An anniversary conjugated to the feminine and to the masculine and expressed by two new models which found the values of the brand: legitimacy and pioneering spirit.

When the brand Corum created the Golden Bridge in 1980, did its founder René Bannwart suspect that he had just launched a model which was not only going to become one of the pillars of his company but also an icon of the Swiss replica watchmaking?

The remarkable design of this timepiece all in transparency was certainly in line with the philosophy of a brand which wished from its creation to take place in the avant-garde of the watchmaking industry. The model completed an already very creative collection alongside with the very sporty Admiral’s Cup watch. It also reached a branch of the cheap fake watchmaking industry where no other watchmaking manufacturers had chosen to venture: the one of the “baguette en ligne” movement.

Golden Bridge

Thirty years later, this movement, which meanwhile became mythical, remains an exceptional achievement and a unique replica watchmaking expression. Composed of 140 components arranged in a parallelepiped rectangle of 33 mm in length, 3 mm in width and less than 5 mm in thickness, it is a masterpiece of micromechanics offering a balance wheel with variable inertia, a barrel with slipping spring, a power reserve of 40 hours, a 4 hertz frequency ensuring reliability and precision, and hand-engraved bridges and plate made of fine gold… At this level of miniaturization, there are few other pretenders.

The Miss Golden Bridge proposes a feminine expression of a design which has made his mark on the watchmaking history. It’s in a whole new ceramic case that the coveted movement is staged. The technical challenge that confronts this material is high because the fineness of the ceramic case is against a large proportion of sapphire crystal. The slim black case just supervises the movement of gold, marking a break between colors and shapes. The faceted hands overlap with lightness the CO113 caliber. The middle, opened above, below but also on its sides, still plays many effects of transparency and allows the movement to be admired from all parts, through its sapphire glasses. However, it comes rethought in a very feminine spirit, in a thin, slender and curved tonneau shape. Its horns were removed so that the hand-stitched crocodile bracelet perfectly integrates the case, setting itself in its continuity, in the style of a cuff IWC relica watches online. The crown located at 6 o’clock emphasizes the refined character of this contemporary and elegant case.

Miss Golden Bridge Ceramic

At the time of the thirty-fifth anniversary of the famous Golden Bridge model, all credit is also to men, as a new model is entirely dedicated to them. Always true to its avant-garde reputation, Corum chose the compromise between a traditional dial and a simple sapphire crystal. The new Golden Bridge model introduced in 2015 is indeed equipped with a metallic glass background. This treatment applied directly on the sapphire crystal allows a clever play of transparency – sometimes opaque on the wrist, sometimes translucent to light. The lines enshrined by the metallization movement make echo to the gold baguette. Devoid of any index, only faceted hands break this verticality. Following the example of all the details which make of this timepiece a masterpiece, the calibre CO113 is also visible from the back of the best replica watches, through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Skeleton Crew: Exploring Armin Strom

The story of the Armin Strom brand goes back nearly half a century. WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Joe Thompson takes us back in this feature article from our October 2014 issue.In 1967, Armin Strom, a 29-year-old watchmaker who specialized in clock restoration, opened a clock store in the town of Burgdorf, Switzerland, in Canton Bern. He soon branched out into skeletonizing cheap replica watches uk movements, paring away material from their bridges and plates until only enough was left to ensure the components would function, then decorating the remaining surfaces with manual engraving.

For nearly two decades, he plied his trade in near anonymity, skeletonizing movements, casing them, and selling them in his store. Then he began casting a wider net. In 1984, he exhibited for the first time at the Basel Fair. In 1990, he won inclusion in the Guinness Book of Records for the world’s smallest hand- skeletonized movement. As the ’90s progressed, word of his skeletonizing prowess spread through the watch industry and he began doing contract work for other cheap replica watches uk companies.

In 2006, when Strom was starting to plan his retirement, he approached a friend and customer named Willy Michel about buying his company. Michel was a local businessman; the Michel family owned a pharmaceutical company in Burgdorf. The family bought a 51-percent interest in Strom’s company. Strom retained a 49-percent interest, agreeing to stay on for the time being as head of production and training. Michel put his son, Serge, in charge of the firm, which consisted of little more than Strom himself and two other watchmakers. The Michel family’s goal was to turn Armin Strom into a real best replica watches uk company, with series production, and to build the Armin Strom brand.

Serge Michel and Claude Greisler are building a brand inspired by Swiss skeletonizing specialist Armin Strom.

The next year, Serge Michel hired a watchmaker named Claude Greisler to be the company’s technical director. Greisler, like Serge Michel, was born in Burgdorf in 1978. He had studied new replica watchmaking at the École Technique in Le Locle, where he specialized in complications, restoration and construction. When Michel hired him, he was working as a movement designer at Christophe Claret.

The first watch the company made under its new ownership was a regulator, skeletonized as an homage to Strom. It contained Caliber ASR07, a modified version of a volume- produced movement. With this watch, the company introduced the Four Elements marketing concept it uses today, in which four different versions of the cheap IWC replica watches, distinguished by their case materials, are denoted by the labels Air, Fire, Water and Earth.

But Greisler believed that to succeed, the company would have to make its own movements. Customers wanted exclusive movements, not mass-produced ones, but it was hard to find outside suppliers who could furnish them.

At first, Serge Michel thought that developing an in-house movement would be too risky: the investment would be large and the return uncertain. But Greisler persevered. He drafted a business plan that eliminated all but the absolutely essential machinery and personnel: a skeleton operation, so to speak. The biggest cost-saving measure was that the movements would be designed in house, by Greisler himself.

Greisler had two other important ideas. First, the company would cover some of the cost of its new machines by charging other replica fake watches uk manufacturers to use them. Second, the various movements – plans called for several different ones − would be designed according to a kind of modular system: some sets of components could be used interchangeably from one caliber to the next. The movements, all in the brand’s portfolio today, are a double-barrel manual-wind one, a single-barrel manual wind, an automatic movement and a tourbillon movement.

“We designed a gear train that could be utilized in each of these movements,” Greisler says. “We also planned the hand-setting and winding mechanism for maximum versatility so it could be installed in several different movements. We planned the caliber with twin barrels early on, but we designed its architecture so one barrel could either be eliminated or replaced by a micro-rotor without requiring a lot of labor. We also arranged the construction so a tourbillon could replace the [standard] escapement. The gear train, levers, springs and screws remain mostly identical in each caliber.” The bridges and plates are individually designed for each movement.

The Gravity automatic model in the company’s Racing collection. The movement’s bridges are made from the motor block of a Formula 1 car.

Since he was starting from scratch, Greisler was free to design the movements as he saw fit. The team agreed on a round top replica watches uk with a diameter of 43 mm. They wanted the movement to fill the case, so they decided to make it 37 mm in diameter.

Beyond that, they wanted the watch to reflect the spirit of Armin Strom’s 40 years of painstaking labor at the bench. “We wanted to bring Armin Strom’s life work into the present day by creating a new interpretation of skeletonized watches,” Greisler says. “So we asked ourselves: What makes these watches what they are? First, the movement is visible from both the front and the rear. Second, a skeletonized watch has a strongly 3-D character, because you can gaze into the movement. Third, the caliber is manually engraved. We wanted our manufacture watch to include all three elements in a new form.” The watches he envisioned would not actually be skeletonized, but would have open dials and movements designed so you could see inside them. They would be a figurative, rather than literal, tribute to Armin Strom’s skeletonizing skill.

Armin Strom had been skeletonizing watches for nearly 40 years when he sold a majority stake in his operation to the Michel family.

These requirements in mind, Greisler sketched a design for a watch. Michel liked it so much that he asked Greisler to do a complete, finished design. The only precondition was that the styling should be distinctive and contemporary, but not trendy: the team wanted the watches to still look good 10 years later. Greisler says there are advantages to having one person design both fake watches uk and movement: there’s no need to coordinate among two or more teams. “I can work on the design and, if technical problems crop up, I can try to solve them through the construction. The whole thing develops in the course of many little steps,” he says.

How does such a construction process proceed? The first step is to specify the barrel’s size and position. Afterwards the locations are chosen for the wheels and the escapement subassembly, followed by the winding mechanism and any additional functions (like a date indicator or a power-reserve display). Many sketches are drawn by hand so the designers can tell, for example, how thick each of the wheels needs to be. Afterwards the movement is completely diagrammed by computer so the designers can view 3-D animations of the sequences of motion and make sure everything works properly.

Based on the thickness of a spring and the shape given to it, a computer program can even simulate the component’s strength, speed and degree of metal fatigue. Finally, the tolerances must be specified in order to build the parts for a prototype, which then undergoes thorough testing to determine if any changes are needed before a pilot series can be fabricated.

The company’s facility in Bienne, where the company moved in 2009

While this work was underway, the company bought a new, larger building in Bienne, filled it with 3 million Swiss francs’ worth of machines, and hired people to operate them. It moved into the building in 2009.

“During the first four months, our machinery produced more shavings than usable components,” Greisler says, “but we’d anticipated that and had included it in our scheduling. There’s simply no alternative to testing and adjusting the machinery on site.”

In one serendipitous instance, a flawed component led to an aesthetic improvement. Greisler had designed the movement with the crown wheels turning on the dial side. To make the gears look more interesting, he skeletonized them. There was one problem: the lathe was producing faulty disks that were domed rather than flat. But Greisler liked them. “They looked like car-wheel rims. We decided to intentionally produce this effect and to give a matching 3-D shape to the wheel spokes.”

It only took a little over one year, from the summer of 2008 to November 2009, for Armin Strom to set up its movement-making operation and develop its first in-house movement, the ARM09, which is hand-wound and has a seven-day power reserve. A high quality replica watches uk containing the movement, the One Week, was introduced at Baselworld in 2010.

The “Air,” or tanium, version of the One Week watch, which contains Caliber ARM09

The company set itself a goal of introducing at least one new in-house movement per year. In 2011, it launched an in-house automatic tourbillon movement. (That year, Strom retired. He is still a shareholder in the company.) The next year it brought out a manual-wind, double-barrel tourbillon movement. In 2013 came an automatic movement and, at Baselworld 2014, an automatic with date and a skeletonized version of the first movement, the ARM09.

In 2013, Armin Strom made 450 watches, in 35 different references, all with in-house movements and nearly all produced in limited editions of 50 or 100 pieces (the exception is a tourbillon model in the Formula 1-inspired Racing collection, of which just two pieces will be made). They are priced from $10,000 to $130,000. There are eight collections. All but two of them are organized according to the Four Elements principle, with Fire models having rose-gold cases, Earth models PVD-coated steel cases, Air models titanium cases and Water models uncoated steel cases.

The ADD date movement, launched last year.

The company now employs 22 people. Michel’s plans call for a surge in production over the next five years, to 5,000 pieces per year. To reach that goal, he’ll have to put the same effort into selling replica watches uk as he does into making them. “We invested in the manufacture and the product. Now we need investment in marketing and sales,” he says.